Japan is renowned worldwide for its unique customs and practices. There is no disputing that the Japanese culture has made its mark on Western popular culture. From food to clothes, lifestyle to film choices, music to artwork, architecture to traditions, Japan continues its pop culture invasion around the globe.

You can witness the richness and complexity of Japanese culture through their numerous formal ceremonies and festivals, one of which includes the traditional Japanese wedding. Whether you’re a Japanese bride or groom, or a person who wishes to infuse Japanese culture into your nuptial, you can’t have a traditional Japanese wedding without the right wedding attire.

For the blushing bride, you need a lovely kimono, and for the handsome groom, the traditional hakama.

The Hakama

The hakama is traditional Japanese attire that looks a lot like a regular broad, pleated skirt. The hakama was traditionally worn exclusively by males, but today it is worn freely by both sexes. These ankle-length, skirt-like garments are worn tied around the waist.

Hakamas are divided into two main types: the umanori or divided hakama, and the gyōtō or undivided hakama. Although both hakama types may look identical at first glance, the umanori is divided like regular trousers while the gyōtō is undivided like a regular skirt.

There is a third type of hakama called the field or the mountain hakama, which was traditionally worn by forest and field workers. The field hakama is characterized by its narrower appearance around the legs, and the looser waistline.

You wear the hakama over your hakamashita or kimono. Each hakamashita has four straps: two long ones at the front of the kimono, and two short ones at either sides of the wearer’s rear. The rear portion of the hakamashita has a board-like region that is called the koshi-ate. There is also a toggle that can be tucked at the back of the obi to prevent the hakama from falling.

The hakama was created to be worn by samurai. Legend has it that the purpose of the hakama’s skirt-like appearance was to mask the samurai’s stances and footwork. Some people challenge this theory by pointing out that the samurai needs to tuck his hakama through his sash or belt for better mobility.

There are seven pleats in a traditional hakama, five of which are located in front, and another two at the back. These pleats are supposed to signify the seven crucial virtues upheld by the samurai.

Another characteristic of the hakama is that despite its balanced appearance, these pleats are asymmetrical in nature, showcasing the Japanese eye for aesthetics.

The Wedding Hakama

For a formal Japanese wedding, it’s important for the groom to wear traditional hakama pants in somber colors. A popular option is to go for the striped gray and black hakama pants. Most grooms choose to wear the wedding hakama with a black haori or overcoat, a black silken kimono and white undergarments.

Historical and Cultural Significance of the Hakama

One of the most important traditional wedding customs in Japan includes the Yui-no. After an agreement between the couple’s families has been made, a formal dinner is set on an auspicious day determined through the Japanese almanac.

Yui-no gifts are exchanged between both families. In a way you can liken the Yui-no gift-giving practice to giving engagement gifts to couples about to be married.

The blushing bride-to-be receives a kimono sash or “obi,” which is said to signify female virtue, while the handsome groom gets a hakama, which represents loyalty and fidelity. For extremely formal weddings, the hakama given to the groom is typically black or striped black and gray.

Other gifts can be given to the couple, all which symbolize both fortune and happiness. These gifts may include money, surume or dried cuttlefish, shiraga or hemp, and sake casks to name a few.

Check out highlights from a Japanese wedding with the groom wearing a hakama.